Faucet Repair in Cedar Park, TX

Homeowners call us when “the faucet won’t stop dripping,” “the handle just spins,” or “water is coming out around the base.” Those words point us toward the parts inside the faucet: a worn cartridge, a loose handle screw, a damaged O-ring, or a supply connection beneath the sink. We start with what the faucet does at the spout, handle, and base rather than assuming every leak has the same source.

A kitchen faucet may leave a small puddle beside the sink after the handle shuts off, while a bathroom faucet may run a narrow stream all day. A pull-down sprayer can leak from the hose connection, and a two-handle faucet can drip because one stem no longer closes against its seat. We check the fixture, the shutoff valves, and the cabinet floor to locate the water path.

A slow drip can often wait for a planned repair if the shutoff valves work and the cabinet stays dry. Water beneath the sink, a handle that will not turn off, or a faucet spraying from its body should not wait, because water can soak the cabinet, flooring, supply lines, and wall behind the fixture.

Drip and loose handle

“My faucet keeps dripping” can mean water escapes from the spout after the handle closes, but it can also mean water works out around the handle cap or gathers at the faucet base. “The handle is loose” may describe a missing set screw, a worn handle adapter, or a cartridge stem that no longer holds the handle in position. Each fault changes how we access and repair the fixture.

Customers also report “barely any water comes out,” “the sprayer leaks under the sink,” and “the faucet makes a squeal.” Low flow often starts at a clogged aerator or screen, while a squeal can come from a restricted cartridge, loose washer, or pressure change through the valve. A leak at the pull-down hose can show only when the sprayer extends from its dock.

These symptoms can look alike from the countertop, especially when water runs down the faucet body and into the sink. Once we remove the handle, inspect the cartridge, and check the hose and supply connections, we can separate a small replaceable part from a faucet body or valve problem; the required parts and labor depend on that finding.

Cartridge inspection at the sink

At the fixture, we run hot and cold water, watch the spout and base, and inspect the handle travel. We check the aerator for mineral buildup, look under the sink for moisture at the supply tubes and shutoff valves, and identify the faucet make from the plate or body. A basic faucet inspection commonly takes 15 to 30 minutes when the cabinet and fixture are accessible.

Before removing a cartridge or stem, we close the hot and cold shutoff valves and confirm that they stop water at the faucet. We then remove the handle, cap, retaining nut, and cartridge or stem as the fixture design requires. A worn O-ring, seal, aerator, handle screw, or standard cartridge can often be replaced during the same visit if the matching part is available.

We test the faucet after reassembly by operating both sides of the handle, checking the spout, base, spray hose, and cabinet connections for water. A corroded valve body, seized shutoff, discontinued cartridge, or faucet that needs replacement may require a return visit after the correct part or fixture is obtained.

Cartridge age and shutoff valve

The age and design of the cartridge affect the repair. A common single-handle cartridge may come out after the retaining clip is removed, while an older stem can have corrosion at the bonnet nut, seat, or threads. Faucet brands also use different splines, stem lengths, seals, and retaining hardware, so a close-looking replacement does not always fit.

Cabinet access changes the work beneath the sink. Cleaning supplies, a disposal, drawer hardware, or a tight vanity can limit access to shutoff valves and supply connections. A shutoff valve that has seized or leaks when operated adds work because we need to address the valve before safely opening the faucet.

A special-order cartridge, discontinued handle, or matching finish part can move the repair beyond a standard visit. In a rental, condominium, or commercial restroom, owner approval or building sign-off can also add coordination before a fixture or valve is changed.

Model number and faucet plate

Before calling, check which room contains the faucet and whether it serves a kitchen sink, bathroom sink, laundry sink, bar sink, or tub. Look for a brand mark on the handle cap, escutcheon plate, spout, or spray head; some model numbers appear on a label beneath the sink or on the original installation paperwork.

Note whether the faucet has one handle, two handles, a side sprayer, or a pull-down hose. Tell us whether water drips from the spout, escapes around the handle, leaks under the cabinet, or runs only while the sprayer is pulled out.

If you know the approximate age of the faucet, share that along with any previous cartridge or handle repair. Clear the cabinet enough to reach the shutoff valves, and let us know if either valve appears stuck or if water is running now.

Call JPT Cedar Park Plumbing at (512) 818-1571 with the faucet model or brand mark. A drip at the spout can become cabinet damage when the leak shifts to the base, hose, or supply connection and continues beneath the sink.